raybear: (flaming gorge)
[personal profile] raybear
Seven days in San Francisco is a vacation. Ten days is a relocation. I am back! I've been back for two days but the first day we didn't have internet access at home which was maybe okay. I spent the 4th with DYA having breakfast at a favorite diner, napping, sexing, bike-riding to ice cream, finished telling all my SF stories and went to bed early, which is a ridiculous thing to attempt in Logan Square on the evening of July 4th when the fireworks are out of control. And this year it was people right in front of our house joining in the fun. If you doubt the magnitude of "mere" alley fireworks, see documentation here courtesy of Liza. So I had two nights in a row with only 4-5 hours of interrupted sleep, but you know, I survived, I'm strong like that.

Onto the stories! I decided to write topically, not chronologically, so we'll see how this goes.

Coffee

Specifically, lattes. Maybe SF does do coffee better. I wasn't entirely convinced of this before this trip, but I had lattes nearly everyday and they were generally all amazing. The best was Maxfield's, which was conveniently located half a block from where we stayed for four nights (though I also made the 20 minutes walk there when I was staying somewhere else later in the week). Maxfield's was where I was sitting both times I had these a-ha moments of understanding maybe exactly why people fall in love with the Bay Area and find their way to it as a life choice. The city is not without its problems -- what city isn't? -- but much like choosing a life partner, it's about which problems you specifically want to live with. I began teasingly referring to the city as "Magic-land" because 1) people smoked pot on the streets anywhere and everywhere and all times of day; and 2) none of the windows in buildings had screens so obviously there are no bugs there.

I had lattes from Cafe Du Soleil in the Lower Haight, the unnamed coffee shop on Church Street in the Castro (where soft rock was playing and from where I posted my last blog entry), and from a place in Noe Valley with [livejournal.com profile] limenal, where she insisted I try her iced latte which she believed to have a hint of chocolate to it. I didn't detect it. But the following day, while walking the city and visiting with Corrie, we went to a dessert coffeeshop where she bought me a chocolate lava souffle cake as a belated birthday gift and an iced latte and THAT drink tasted like chocolate, even before I bit into the cake. The power of suggestion? Or the power of Magic-land?

Manhattans

My other drink of choice for my birthday vacation relocation. I had two (or three?) on the night of my birthday. I had one the next day, after lunch with Damon down in Fisherman's Wharf (fried clams from a stand that I couldn't finish and relinquished to the aggressive birds), at this old irish restaurant and bar popular for some irish coffee drink. The decor was all dark wood and polished brass and plush carpeting, and the bartender was a tall gaunt man with thick white hair and moustache who stood before us somberly and accepted our drink order (of two maker's manhattans, straight-up) with the barest hint of respect in your gentleman's drink. We were, of course, two gentlemen that day, sporting our hats and beards. I did turn 30 after all. While he made the cocktail, I looked on the wall behind where he was just standing to see a giant painting that featured dozens of smaller images, all of the bartender we just met, mixing up drinks. Apparently he was some sort of institution and I was tempted to buy a postcard replica of the painting, but opted for the memory alone. Then I had one the next day, once again after lunch with Damon, though this time it was in Sausalito -- again by the water, this time it was sandwiches from an italian deli and gourmet food shop. Then we walked over to another "institution" of a bar, with more dark wood and polished brass, this time out on the water directly, and we ordered the same, received the same nod of recognition in drink choice, I removed my hat this time and sat it on the bar while we drank.

I took a break from Manhattans for the rest of the trip, until my last night in town, when Randy and I went to Twin Peaks (aka the Glass Coffin, aka the Velvet Coffin, aka our favorite bar) and over the course of the night had 5 of them. I also had a rum ball from Hot Cookie. In between the rounds, we were visited by many of my favorite cast of SF characters. I got to meet Sparky's snuffleupagus, aka Starlet. There was a surprise visit from DP who was also visiting from Chicago. There were accidental friendships between us and the young hustler one table over. There was a jukebox where I played Linda Ronstadt's Different Drum twice -- once to begin the evening, once to end it -- as well as my other 'theme' of the trip, Boz Scaggs's Lowdown. And there were rounds of our favorite game "Daddy or No Daddy?" and its variations "Dirty Sexy Uncle" and "PawPaw".

......

This concludes part one. There will be more food and drink, I should just tell you now -- I did go to wine country. Also, I had kobe beef for the first time. Also, amazing balsamic vinegar. Also, also......But there will be other stories too. I was eating breakfast while typing this, which I'm sure informed my storytelling choices.

Date: 2007-07-06 01:05 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sharkysmachine.livejournal.com
I think this is how I know I'm only like the Girls Gone wild type of queer. I hate SF. I know it's wicked. It's like whenever people say, "I hate Atlanta." I immediately assume they are racist, so I also assume saying I loathe SF makes people think I'm a homophobe. Then again, I've made no secret that queers get on my fucking nerves and being trapped in places where they are is like my idea of hell on earth.

Coffee? Who knew? I thought montreal did coffee like whoa.

I'm so glad your birthday was amazing. One day I will travel for my own, but I don't know it just doesn't seem lieely.

Date: 2007-07-06 01:14 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] raybear.livejournal.com
Hey, it took me like eight trips to finally realize, oh, ok, I kinda like this city. People have thought I am crazy because I say I like LA better than SF (though I know you get this).

I think with any city, what makes it really great is the people. And I don't mean that in a hippie way of saying that the general populace of SF is somehow amazing -- I mean, that lots of specific people I love a whole lot live there (or are getting ready to move there) so hanging out with them in any city means I have a good time.

I don't think Chicago is the end all be all of cities -- I have great affection for it, but I have more affection for the dozens of people here I like and love. And affection for living in a 3 BR apartment for $900, cause you sure as hell can't do that isht in the Bay Area.

also....

Date: 2007-07-06 01:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] raybear.livejournal.com
It's like whenever people say, "I hate Atlanta." I immediately assume they are racist,

yes! totally. also, any white people who say they hate the south (especially when they haven't been there). i assume they are trying to look progressive when really they are just scared of being in cities where they are outnumbered.

Re: also....

Date: 2007-07-06 01:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sharkysmachine.livejournal.com
Omg, I keep forgetting I have this crazy white man as my icon1 People are like, "WHO IS THIS FUCKER AND WHY IS RAY RAY FRIENDS WITH HIM!!!"

drinking.

Date: 2007-07-06 01:23 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] unscrambled.livejournal.com
1. I think the only latte in Chicago worth drinking is at Metropolis coffee. But I think it's really worth drinking.

2. The Manhattan is a good choice. A perennial favorite of mine, that tastes good in hot and cold weather. When I next see you, I'll make you a Sazerac (or, depending on which of the houses I live in and we're at, a Sazarak)--you will probably like it. Except if you hate anise. Also, if you want to go to that bar on Armitage with me and drink obscure cocktails, I'd be into it. Or if you want to have Manhattans at the Matchbox, where they make a mean one. Or, apparently there's some new bar at the crotch that makes their own everything and is run by an extra pretentious dude--I'd go there too, as I am an extra pretentious dude. Sometimes.

Date: 2007-07-06 02:11 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] riotdrake.livejournal.com
re: chocolate-tasting-coffee, a lot of beans from south america have hints of chocolate. the beans we use at my shop taste really chocolatey. i love it.

Date: 2007-07-06 03:42 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] keetbabe.livejournal.com
oh... you had to go and say it! SF's lattes are the BEST! sigh. just thinking about them makes me want to buy a plane ticket to paradise, aka SF, NOW! i had lattes all over that city and fully enjoyed each and every one of them to the last drop...

and in chicago-- intelligentsia's lattes come the closest to SF lattes.

so glad you're back! and that you've finally fallen in love with SF!
(deleted comment)

Date: 2007-07-10 01:30 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] louche.livejournal.com
i second ritual!
it came second only to blue bottle coffee which was THE BEST EFFING CAPPUCCINO of my life (i took DP to blue bottle and she too agreed)!! that said, though, i was a regular at ritual all this week since it is in the mission and i was staying within a 20 min walk from it.

also, ray: i tried making it to twin peaks too but i was stuck in san jose. sorry to have missed you.

Date: 2007-07-10 04:47 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] raybear.livejournal.com
oh man, i walked by the blue bottle but didn't get coffee, because my friend and i were looking for a place to sit down too. oh well. next time! it's not too terribly far from the home of MFA-Husband, who recently relocated to lower haight.

i was bummed you couldn't make it to twin peaks!! it was a fun night. but there will be others. hope you had a great time in SF!

May 2010

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